Weblog
Tuesday, 30 June 2009
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Ehime Cont.
Like I said, as soon as I got into this town, I checked myself into a hotel by the station.
The bullfight town.
ha ha ha, I love when they try to use English.
Night view of the station from my room
In all Japanese towns, villages and cities the main event or feature of the locale is always on the sewer caps or in the sidewalk.
Bullfight mania continues.
OMG, a Mcd's breakfast has never been so good.
The seven lucky gods.
grapes getting ripe. I should be so lucky as to be put in a bag where the bugs cannot bite me.
more of the 7 lucky gods. Not so lucky. Right around the time I took this picture, another priest asked me if I had lived in Japan for two years before. Surprised, I said yes. He said he heard from someone that there is an American woman doing the circuit who lived in Japan for two years. Wow--I'm getting famous!! Then he gave me an orange and I sat on the bench eating it. All was well until I noticed my walking stick was GONE! I left it in the stand in front of the temple office where everyone leaves there sticks. Someone had the audacity to steal... from a pilgrim...IN A TEMPLE! WTF! I think you definitely go to hell for a stunt like that. At least you get reincarnated as some animal that eats its own feces. I was so depressed I cried. It was only the second time this trip (the first time wasn't for myself though). I guess after that horrible hotel, MJ dying, the camera breaking and now my stick stolen, that was the last straw. I had become really attached to it. It had been with me every step of the way so far, helping me all the way. Now, suddenly, at #42 it was gone.
The stupid this is, if someone wanted one, they are sold everyone for only 15 dollars. What's more, there are always a stack of ones that people have forgotten or brought back to their home temple in thanks. The priest there actually told me just to take one of those. Why MY stick of all the sticks that were there? The thief could have had a stick without inflicting pain on me. I was angry and hurt and hotly stomped the rest of the way through the mountains imagining all the things I would do to the person if I ever saw my special walking stick again.
1/2 way to the next temple after the thievery incident.
Then I saw another freaking snake. I've actually gotten somewhat used to seeing them (how many snakes had my old stick warded off...) I've had plenty of snake nightmares too.
My room after the stick incident. At least it was really, really nice. I breathed a huge sigh of relief.
I was served dinner in my room again. Instead of being lonely, it was nice. I was in such a bad mood I didn't feel like making others put up with me.
Sashimi. Next to it was ice in the shape of a gourd which had more sashimi in it. nice touch!
cooking my own meat in a nabe!
And what meal in Japan would be complete without fish heads and bamboo sprouts.
this would be a popular shop back home, ha ha.
cool boats.
cool lotus pond.
cool un-numbered temple. The story behind this one is that Kobo Daishi walked into this town on a winter's night and no one would give him lodging so he had to sleep under this bridge.
Shrine under the bridge
Sleeping Kobo Daishis
While he was under the bridge he composed this poem that goes something like, when no one will help a traveler in need, one night seems like ten. I can totally relate. Mine goes something like: when no one will clean the inn, one night can seem like ten.... ha ha ha.... moan.
just someone roasting some fish on the road.
cute sign
some chickens and a rooster on the trail
me, passed out on a bench for 10 minutes on my way through the mountains.
I decorated my new/used walking stick with a hawk feather, a protective amulet and a bell someone lost from their walking stick (I found it). I think it looks pretty pimp now. My spirits are in tact and I feel like continuing. The priest told me not to give up my mission. The guidebook says that when shit happens, I should not complain, but regard it as ascetic training. Consider myself trained.Yesterday it poured buckets of rain all day. It was her free day, so Kyohei's mom said she would come to meet me at 9am at temple #44 (half way!!). She said she might be a little late, but don't worry. Of course, she called me at 7:24am to tell me she was waiting at the temple..... eye roll. I was already up and dress and watching Ohayou Nippon (Good morning Japan). Because it was raining so hard, I didn't mind as much being driven to temples.
#45 was a "difficult place" Even after we drove to it there was a lot of uphill walking to do (good). To get to one point in the temple there was this scary and steep ladder to climb up.
I did it! The view was awesome.
Me holding up my hands for #45.
then we went to the zoo where I saw alligators and flamingos.... just like being in Florida.
ha ha ha ha ha
The next temple we went to had a lotus pond.
And... Buddha's feet. Legend has it, whoever puts their bare feet on this stone will have all their foot pain taken away. Buddha=had shoes to fill
Legend has is, an evil person cannot pass through this gate. If they try it, they will go straight to hell. I'm still around (barely). At least I don't think I'm in hell.... I'm in Matsuyama using the internet!
So Kyohei's mom is letting me use her camera while we see if Kyohei's camera is fixable. I took a couple pictures with it yesterday, but I cannot get them to load in xanga, I've been trying all morning. I don't know if its this computer or what. Hopefully, I'll still be able to post pictures on here. I'll be pretty disappointed if not. I really hate changing electronics. I'm sure her camera will take perfectly good photos (especially since I can no longer use the zoom on mine), but..... I need to get over myself and get some breakfast.
ps its my three year anniversary with Kyohei. Wish he were here.
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Currently
HIStory: Past, Present and Future, Book I
By Michael Jackson
see relatedKochi--Ehime!
Ok, going back to where I left off. Walking back up from the Ashizuri Cape, I saw this beach.
Not exactly a place you would want to lay out,but the rock formations were so cool. Like some sort of geography nerd, I took about 1,000 photos.
Shortly after that, I relearned the glory that is going to the toilet outdoors. Even when there is no bathroom, there are always vending machines. Even in the middle of nowhere..... which, if you think about it, sort of lends itself to the no toilet problem, eh?
I stayed in a pretty gross inn that night. A bunch of loud, drinking construction workers were staying there too for some reason (family?) I kept my door locked.... I was also served dinner in my room for the first time. I think that was as lonely as I've ever felt during this walk. To my horror, a giant slug and a human hand-sized spider were there to keep me company in the toilet that reeked so strongly of urine, I could smell it down the hall. Where's the bathroom.... just follow your nose!
However, this was the view from my room.
I museum of storts where you can look at life in the sea. I got there way too early to go in, which is all the better because I probably would have spent money on it.
More trail markers with cool Kobo Daishi paintings on them.
The whole area was awesome with the ocean crashing on the rocks.
more really interesting rock formations on the coast.
About to turn the corner
some orange and blue for my gator fans
Random, man-made scene from the road.
Number #38 (i think) is famous for the legend of a turtle crawling up the the ocean with a bell on its back. Hence this statue at the gate.
For whatever reason, my competitive side got the better of me and I was determined to make it to #39 before 5 pm. I was staying nearby and could have just gone the next day, but no.... I had to run at full strength the last kilometer up this hill after having walked over 30k that day. I am crazy. My high school cross country coach would have been proud at my perseverance and stamina though. I got there in time! At the top, a priest bought me this Aquarius. I felt special (and sore and sweaty)
I liked the handmade look of this sign.
I had a terrible time on this mountain. I was cussing and sighing and moaning the whole way up. Every time I thought it would end, it just kept going up. All of a sudden, it peaked and I was in Ehime Prefecture!
Me, in another tunnel. I was so happy with myself. I was going to post something like "don't I look like MJ" yeah...... not so much anymore
construction workers had free masks out for people to use. How thoughtful!
ha ha
ha ha, this says "tea house and karaoke HUSTLER" ha ha ha, love the name
Question: what is better than a big scary dog to keep buglers and the mail man away from your door?
A giant scary BULL! WTF! Just tied up in someone's front yard on a major highway. I was later told that this was probably a bull used in the famous bull fights of the next town I was going to. Oooh, of course! Bull fights, what was I thinking. I swear, Kochi is the weirdest place on earth.
Hooray, another inn with a room that looks out on the beach.
The dinner was all caught right there that day.
The shells are actually all these pretty colors naturally.
View from my room. Red sky at night, sailors delight. Heaven, right? WRONG!!!
This turned out to be the scariest, dirtiest inn I've stayed at so far. It was almost like a cartoon or something. Flies and bugs swarming over the toilets, old bandaids, dead bugs, etc etc in the shower. I thought the mirrors were just fogged, but no, it was grime. I was afraid to touch anything because it was covered in mold. In the room, I could see and HEAR bugs jumping all around. I tried to spray the perimeter of my futon, but to no avail. They were flying around me, landing on me. I saw a big lizard crawling up the wall, INSIDE. I was too terrified to turn off the light. I only got about 90 min. of deeply troubled sleep that night. My skin was still crawling when I left. It was hard to choke down my food--appetite gone.
right after I left, Kyohei called to tell me that my hero, Michael Jackson had died. First Paul Newman and now MJ? Gwen Stefani is BANNED from riding a plane or crossing the street for the rest of the year.
I was heartbroken. Then I had to walk through another treacherous mountain pass with bugs landing on me. I really wanted to give up. How could I handle these slippery stones on this steep mountain when I had NO SLEEP and MJ died! I couldn't! I screamed and spat angrily on the moutain. Could I just get 30 damn seconds without a bug on me!!!!
This was so deep blue, it was amazing.
Then, right after I took this picture of a rest hut for pilgrims, I dropped my camera and broke the zoom. great!
Then I had to walk through the longest tunnel yet. perfect.
That was the f-ing worst day ever.
at least the people at a Toyota shop pulled me off the road to give me free iced coffee. Ten minutes in the AC with coffee and a clean toilet was like heaven at that point. Despite the broken camera.
One thing was for sure. As soon as my legs could carry me to the next town, I was not going anywhere near anymore of these family run inns. Enough is enough.
Monday, 22 June 2009
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Ashizuri day
aka hardest walk day
aka self-portrait day
aka best scenery day
aka nicest hotel day
aka craziest seafood day
aka windiest day
I started off the day with about 25km to the cape of Ashizuri where #38 is. I got a good early start on the day. I was on the road walking at 7am. That is probably the earliest yet. I really wanted to see this beach, so I hiked down this treacherous little path too (which I discovered later was NOT a pilgrimage path, as I had thought)
I had a little adventure climbing over the rocks to get there, but it was so worth it.
my footprints and shadow
aww! What a gorgeous beach. Surfers already in the water at 7:30! I was loving life.
hooray, I can use the timer on my camera
Then, I realized, after walking that entire beach, that I would have to fjord the river to get back on course! Wait a minute... this wasn't in the guidebook. I was super cautious because I nearly got my entire shoe sucked into some quicksand, but I made it across.
ha ha ha, I might have a sick sense of humor, but this is hilarious. Caution, drop! Never leave ha ha ha
After that, I found myself on this trail that was really hard. I had to climb over things and under things. The trail seemed to disappear at one point and then later it turned into a creek! Complete with slippery rocks and swarms of bugs. I was practically running through the woods at the end swinging my arms like a mad woman swatting the bugs. So.... ready to get out of the woods.
Somehow, I managed to take a different route and ended up on the other side of the cape. I didn't realize this until hours later, but it did strike me as odd that the ocean was suddenly on my other side...
This tunnel was cool. I couldn't see the ocean until I reached the other side, but I could feel the seaspray in the tunnel. Did I mention it was ridiculously, loose-your-hat windy out today?
sweat running down my walking stick.
how helpful. It could be that way... or on the other hand....it could be that way too.
more walking
almost there....
Hooray for explanations in English so that I will actually take the time to read them. I figured, what the heck, lets go see the cave. Down the stairs and down the stairs. I started grumbling to myself...oohhh this will be fun to climb back up. This stupid cave better be....
holy! Its the coolest thing I have seen so far. These pictures are not great representations. It was awesome, awesome, awesome.
me, contemplating the cave and the oceanof course I took my pack off (and everything else for fear that it would blow away in the wind), went down to the rocks and climbed over close to the cave. I took a video... have to figure out how to post that....note to self. The cave made me deliriously happy.
more super wavey and windy scenes from around the cape. The wind was blowing so hard that it was difficult to even get a picture. I had to take my hat off and hold it, otherwise it would have been long gone.
The lighthouse and famous suicide spot. Ah, the Japanese are so romantic about death....
Saw the John Manjiro statue. This excited me because I read a historic novel about the guy before. Very interesting.
And FINALLY I found the temple. Because I had taken a different pilgrimage route than what I thought, well anyway, lets just say it took sometime to figure all that out.
the temple was really cool... lots of statues and pagodas and large rocks in the grounds. Kobo Daishi in the Daishi hall! Not totally certain it is OK to take a picture of this, but no one was looking....
A priest stamps and writes calligraphy in my stampbook. He gave me a cute little cell phone strap with a pilgrim on it for a present too.

After that, I had to try and figure out that I had come the opposite direction and where all the hotels where, try and make a reservation, field phone calls from Kyohei and his mom about whether or not she would come to visit me the next day, and deal with the ridiculous wind (which was getting really old)... so I did was justgotspaid usually does and just walked into the first hotel and stayed there. ha!
I saw internet in the lobby and decided this would be good. I just wanted to have a private shower room again too... I did not know what I was getting myself into. Pilgrim tour buses started to roll in and all the hotel employees in the lobby went japanese-style customer service beserk. Then I get to dinner (above). Yes, this is for one person.
Sashimi. Shrimp is NOT delicious raw.
a plate of mixed seafood and veggie wonders garnished with maple leaves.
I do not like food that looks back at me
sorry: sideways shot. Whats in the pot!?!
a bunch of seafood cooked over little granite rocks.
uhm, what!?! So, yes, I ate this little squid. The old lady who served me was watching me! I had to do it! Why are they always watching me eat? Watching a foreigner eating raw things with chopsticks might be as entertaining to a japanese person as watching an elephant ride a unicycle.... anyway. I felt like I was on some sort of reality TV show, but I did it!
I would be OK with never eating crab again too. The anatomy of a crab is terrifying. I think I actually kind of squealed like a little girl when I had to touch it. What!? She was watching me... I had to do it.
I learned that this hotel is really popular with tour groups.... they all have their own different meal planned out with the hotel too. Very interesting. Actually, the hotel was totally booked by tour groups today except for two rooms. Lucky me. They have on outdoor hot bath (rotenburo). I really wanted to try it out, but didn't want to be around all the tour groups (too many old ladies gawking at my naked body= not fun). I ran up there right after eating before all the busloads of people where done and got in the bath. aahhh, there is something freeing about being naked outside when it is this windy.
View from the bath
What I really, really hope is the first naked picture of me online
Nice! That was refreshing. So, you see, I am alive and well. Its already after 10 and I have a 6:30 breakfast. I wonder what that will look like. I will finish this later.
All night the wind howled like I was in a hurricane. The front desk man said that it is not usual... hhmmmm. What's going on with the weather. It was raining, but has thankfully stopped.
What I've been stressing on lately is whether I am going to fast or too slow, living too luxuriously, etc etc. So this hotel was a little over the top. To my credit, I honestly didn't know it was going to be this nice... and that crab was really horrifying. I don't know, I've been on the pilgrimage for a little over 2 weeks now, I am at about the 1/2 way point distance wise... which means I am keeping to my pace (I wanted to do it in about 35-40 days). But then Kyohei is on the phone all trying to tell me that I'll never be able to finish all 88 at this pace and I met some other pilgrim that was at the same place as me, but had been doing it for 3 weeks... I feel guilty and like I am missing out on something or I am lazy if I take a bus or train and selfish, too slow if I don't. I feel like I am living too luxuriously when I stay in a nicer hotel, but get annoyed staying at this little (sometimes dingy) inns. Where is the balance here?
I have to find someway of being satisfied with whatever happens in the course of the day. Even with lots of planning ahead of time and map checking, I still cannot predict or control what will happen during the course of the day. Things always come up: a hotel is full, I have accidentally taken a different route, it rains and I ride a train instead, someone gives me a ride, I see something interesting and take an extra 2 hours. There is no accounting for these things. I am very flexible, but I think my perfectionism is taking over. I want to have the best experience/ get the most out of this that I can. Can I be satisfied?
Anyway, I'm on the road in t minus ten minutes. I really want to email and facebook, but this computer is ridiculously slow and I've already managed to crash it twice.
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Kochi
...views from the country
So, after my last post, I managed to find the bus back to #33 (with a little help from a few local townspeople--I have the WORST sense of direction, especially when it comes to buses) Anyway, miraculously I got there and got on my way to #34.
Koinobori (carp streamers)
this is mostly what I see when I am walking, lots and lots of rice patties
I loved this sign, it was hanging right before an intense uphill and staircase leading to #34 It reads "Henro (pilgrim) FIGHT!") Hooray for little cheerleaders like this.
The ceiling on the gate was cool with this big dragon on it
Hooray! #34 at last!
I stayed at a "business hotel" so I didn't get dinner there, but went out for a change. I asked for a recommendation of the local flavors and this is what I got... white something-something.... it was really good and I had a good time watching a show on tv with the restaurant lady. It was something like the US's Are you smarter than a 5th grader. I actually got one right! In Japanese...how proud was I?
The next day, I was back on the trail... these rocks might look innocent enough, but I slipped and fell (my first fall!) a while later down the trail. ouch!
lots and lots of long bridges.... still in route to #35
This is one of my choice vending machine beverages.... for those of you who know me, you know I don't really sweat that much. Probably less than the average person you would say, right? Forget that. I am drenched with sweat 100 percent of the time now. Its really weird.
Hooray! I finally got to #36. Another long staircase UP to the temple, but it was pretty and lined with hydrangeas.
I continue to be given lots and lots of things from local people. Earlier that day a woman practically ran after me shouting "o-henro san! o-henro san! (pilgrim! pilgrim!)" She gave me a little quilted bag filled with candy. Ginger candy. Then, a man got off of his motorcycle and asked me if I would please honorifically receive something from him. He gave me this little envelope with a 500 yen coin in it (about 5 dollars)! Since it was pre-stamped, he must make it a habit to give these out to pilgrims, which I find awesome and surprising. It hardened my desire to make it through all 88 temples. I wasn't just doing this for me or my friends or family (I do write prayer cards for you'all!), I was on a mission for all the random people that help me too...
After #36, I decided to ride the ferry part of the way to #37. It took some doing, but I finally found the tiniest ferry port in the world. And here I am.....ON A BOAT!
I'M ON A BOAT, I'M ON A BOAT!
(some men fishing from little huts in the middle of the water)ITS A BIG, BLUE WATERY ROAD!
I NEVER REALLY THOUGHT I'D BE ON A BOAT....
YEAH..... (END SONG)
I walked until I came to a place called Susaki where I would be staying that night. This is their local specialty; Nabeyaki Ramen
You know I ate that! It was delicious it made me dizzy.
The next day, it was raining. Raining-RAINING. I was planning to walk this historical trail, but the man who ran the inn said it would be dangerous and that I should take the other one. Once I reached this town.... (forgetting the name) I stopped into their Taisho Market place to see all the prep and buying of the fresh catch of fish.
An old man waved me over to him. He was a pilgrim--a "sleep outside pilgrim" (nojuku). He was old and didn't have many teeth, but his clothes were clean and he didn't seem homeless. Anyway, he starts going on and on about how dangerous the trails are in the rain. Having slipped and fell the day before, I knew he was right, but he kept going on about how someone died one time or something or other.... then he added for extra emphasis, "You'll break your neck! Ride the train!" So... I rode the train and only walked like 8k that day. BUT it was pouring rain. After only 2 hours of walking, I was wet INside my poncho. I decided to call it an early day.
It wasn't all bad, the mist coming off the mountains in the rain was impressive.
this was cute. HALLO!
After my wretched 2 hour walk in the pouring rain (yes, I'm a total princess) I reached #37, where I would be staying that night. There was a really pushy nun that was running check-in and other matters. I didn't like her at first and tried to avoid her...she kept finding me! It was almost a little funny. Actually, she was really helpful and showed me how to stuff my shoes with newspaper so they would be dry by morning. After dinner she let me use the temple shoe-drying too (I guess such a thing exists).
One cool feature of #37, is that the ceiling of the main hall is painted with all these different pictures. Because I stayed there, I went to the 6am morning mantra chant and lecture. The monk explained that in '77 they decided to have people paint whatever they wanted to decorate the temple. I guess it was part of some sort of spruce-up campaign after they had to rebuild the thing when it was bombed in WWII... something like that. Wish my Japanese was just a little better.
Loved this bridge. It crosses the Shimanto River, which is famous for being the only un-dammed river left in Japan (sad). Also, as Kyohei told me, its famous for having really delicious seaweed. Of course.
I stopped into the Dragonfly Park. A friend of a friend works there, so... you know.
True to its name, there were a bizillion dragonflies there, but this is the only decent photo I was able to get.
love those snails
The lily pads where blooming!
Loved the reflection of blue against the murky water.
The bridge again on the way back. It was supposed to rain that day, but didn't! Hooray. I've decided that I hate walking in the rain.
Two friends hanging out by the river. I thought this was nice... I wish one of my girl friends was here.... actually there are NO girls on the pilgrimage. None. And yes, I am that creeper taking pictures of people from behind the bushes.
More views of the river and one of its famous chinkabashi bridges. A postcard behind me in the lobby says they are a famous spot for filming scenes for movies and TV
A nice lady with a small icecream stand on the side of the road gave me a free cone. It was much appreciated because it was soooo hot and humid. Destination: Ashizurimisaki, only 43K....
flowers for sale on the side of the road
reflections in the river
more mountains in the mist
I walked through the most unbearably long tunnel; 1620 meters! What is that, like a mile? You could not see the light at the end of the tunnel until about 1/2 way through.
I think that tunnels are terrifying. It took forever to get though this one. I was so happy to be out of it I took this picture. I think the exhaust fumes gave me a headache though.
My inn for the night was on the other side of that bridge. Just a little bit more, just a bit more....
My face was crusty from sweat, my feet were aching and I think I pulled some muscle in my back, but I was so happy that I could see the ocean from my window that I took this picture.
And that brings us up to today. Obviously I found a hotel with internet. Today was so awesome, that it deserves its own post. Later.
Wednesday, 17 June 2009
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Mountains, Oceans, Bridges: Kochi Prefecture
Kochi Prefecture is "The land of spiritual disciple" and also "the devil's land" because it is hot, rains hard and is the longest to walk of all 4 prefectures. People aren't supposed to give you O-settai (freebies to help pilgrims) because it is supposed to be hard. That said, the people are SO nice here. I've been given more fruit and hard candy than I can eat and I got money and a ride down a mountain too.
From Kannoura, I took a bus down 55. I saw a few other pilgrims walking. Eventually, guilt (and cheapness) got the best of me and I got off the bus and walked the rest of the way to the Mirakudo cave and Temple #24.
On the way, I saw more pretty flowers and this incredible Kobo Daishi statue.
It was at this spot that he sat looking at the sky and the sea at 19 years old and decided that he would dedicate his life to Buddhism.
Muroto cape!
Another bathing spot of Kobo Daishi.
A group of tour bus pilgrims coming out of the cave.
Me, inside the cave, looking at the tour bus and hoping that at 28 I would figure out what to do with my life.
How did that dude get there?
I was amazed at this long and winding road leading up to temple #24. Why are temples almost always at the top of a mountain? gasp!
I finally reached the top. I'm pretty sure it was about 100 degrees, but no, only 28 (celsius) I know that is hot, but I'm pretty sure I don't want to know exactly how hot. Not knowing is better sometimes. And what happened to all the rain that Kochi is suppose to get. Its hot, sunny and 28 every day. I could use the cool down!
One of these things is not like the other...
and then I drank the hell out of that ice cold coke. It was probably the best coke I ever had. Thank GOD for vending machines at the temples.
back down the long and winding road...
I saw my car again! Oh, how I love you cute green Mazda Demio or whatever you are called.
This temple (#26, I think) is a favorite of local fishermen asking for protection on the sea. Likewise, there were fishmongers everywhere in this little town.
Just some fish drying by the side of the road, what else, right?
cute little street
or death trap!?
Liked this statue
When I reached the top of 26 (looking sweaty and deranged again) I saw the same tour group that I saw at #24. They had me pose for a photo with them and then stuffed my hands full of candy.
I stayed at temple 26 that night. There were only 3 people there including me. I kept running into the other two pilgrims throughout the next day~~not surprising really since we are taking the same route.
The temple lodge at 26 and my room. These temple lodges are all REALLY nice. We got served a ridiculous amount of delicious food for dinner.
My friend, Kazu who was staying at 26 the next day...and the ocean. Love, love love walking by the ocean.
A ways down the road we came to a little shop that had all these "pilgrims stop here" signs leading up to it. I'm glad we stopped. This woman was really nice. She chatted Kazu and I up while she gave us free fruit and chilled tea.
I had never had this before, but I've noticed it grows wild round these parts. Its called yamamomo and really good. Something like a cross between a raspberry and a strawberry, but more sour.
This is called sumomo (I think) and it might have been the first time I've had this
Another pilgrim rest stop down the road in Nahari (I like the name of that town). A lady at the sushi restaurant next door rushed out to give us chilled oolong tea and little cakes. After this, Kazu and I parted ways and I went to the post office and the station.
road from Nahari
I got off 2 or 3 stops down the tracks at Tonohama, which is at the bottom of the GIANT mountain #27 sits at the top of. The guidebook Kitty sent me totally saved me this day. It recommended leaving your bags behind at this particular inn and then hiking up the mountain. The little old lady (its always a little old lady) picked me up at the station in her tiny Japanese pickup and took my bag. Anyway, their mascot for this station is Henro-kun (Mr. Pilgrim). Cute. Even the vending machine at this station talks to you when you buy something, "Hey Pilgrim! Do you have a point card?!" I'm not even making this up.
Half way up the mountain, beautiful terraced slopes.
ah ha! So that's how they plant rice these days....
I keep seeing this mysterious marker on the route. Its probably just another kind of road marker, but I like to think of is as some sort of secret pilgrim society mark.... yes, I have way too much time to use my imagination.
The climb to the top of 27 was another lung buster, but I finally made it. I felt pretty good about myself at that point, even if Kazu came tearing up the mountain and passed me half way up (that kid is GENKI). I even went another kilometer up the mountain to the Shinto shrine at the top. The only really notable thing about is this bomb shell they have in front of the main hall. I asked the woman stamping my book about it and she said that after a war (WWII?) they found it near there and decided to display it (a sign that the kami protected the temple from getting bombed?) And then she gave me some candy.
By that time, the other pilgrim who stayed at 26 was there and he took this picture of me and gave me candy.
Half way down the mountain someone gave me a lift and a lecture on how I couldn't refuse anything that people want to give the pilgrims because it their way of praying. He then told me a story that he had down the pilgrimage 19 times. The first time he did it walking because his younger sister was sick, then she was healed. I was hoping I would hear miracle stories like this sometime. Back at the inn called "Drive-in 27" I was the only pilgrim staying there again. I ate this ridiculously large meal and then was given...... candy. You see a theme here?
The next day, I went to the zoo. I'm such a dork that I showed up before it even opened and had to wait outside.
It was fun being the only gawker in the zoo. I could look at certain animals as long as I wanted to without feeling self conscious. The coolest ones were the Lesser Panda, the giant ant eater and this crazy troll-looking monkey.
out in the middle of no where again.
more road markers
Tour group saying the heart sutra.
Actually, when I took this picture I was beyond annoyance. The Sakai family had suggested that I stay with their friend in Kochi. I figured anyone the Sakais were friends with would be cool, right. WRONG. This woman annoyed me in everyway possible. It totally ruined a whole day and 1/2 of pilgrimage. She couldn't make up here mind about things, she ignored the fact that I wanted to go see the botanical gardens next to temple 31 (even the priest recommended it!), she tried to rush me through the temple visits. She walked in on me twice when I was trying to use her bath... her shower was broken so I had to dump steaming hot water with a bowl on myself out of the tub. I kept saying to myself, "she is trying to help, she is putting you up, she is feeding you..." but I couldn't help by be annoyed. The pilgrimage is not a damn stamp race, I wanted to shout. I finally devised a plan. I announced at #33 (which she impatiently rushed me through) that I really preferred to walk at this point. She insisted on taking me the #34, I insisted on walking, she insisted, I insisted again and took my stuff out of her car. I pretended to talk the route, but when her car was out of sight I turn right around, got in a taxi, and headed back into Kochi city. I found The Best Western!!!! Internet!!!!I really regretted my time with her. As she was speeding down the road from temple to temple, I kept seeing things I wanted to see-see. It occurred to me know more than ever that its really about the trip between the temples as much as it is about the temples themselves. I got on the first train headed towards the art museum after somehow convincing the staff to let me check in early. They have works by Chagall! I couldn't miss EVERYthing along the way.
I found this diet coke with green tea flavor (plus catechin, whatever that is) It was delicious.
I wandered around the shotengai (shopping arcade) for a while
After I ate a ridiculously large plate of curry rice, I saw a sign that said Kochi castle 1km. What the heck. I could handle looking at a castle at sunset right about now.
I took this picture for Kyohei who loves Tosa dogs.
I'm about to check out the Best Western now. I'm going to try and take a bus back to #33 and start where I left off. I always feel a little bit guilty and bad whenever I take a bus or train, so I'm not going to do that as much. I think I'm ahead of schedule anyway, so I would like to slow this pilgrimage down a bit. And no more staying at people's houses if I can help it. Fuck that shit. I want to go at my pace and not have to work around anyone else's schedule or conform to their idea of how many temples I should be visiting a day or what I should or shouldn't see on the way.
Another thing of note: this is the first morning since I've started this that I haven't had fish for breakfast. They had cornflakes! cornflakes! I thought I was going to jump for joy.
Ok, sorry for the long post. Time to go and get ready. I probably won't be online again until I get to Matsuyama.
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