Monday, 22 June 2009

• Kochi

  ...views from the country

  

  So, after my last post, I managed to find the bus back to #33 (with a little help from a few local townspeople--I have the WORST sense of direction, especially when it comes to buses)  Anyway, miraculously I got there and got on my way to #34.

  

  Koinobori (carp streamers)

  

  this is mostly what I see when I am walking, lots and lots of rice patties

  

  I loved this sign, it was hanging right before an intense uphill and staircase leading to #34  It reads "Henro (pilgrim) FIGHT!")  Hooray for little cheerleaders like this.

  

  The ceiling on the gate was cool with this big dragon on it

  

  Hooray!  #34 at last!

  

  I stayed at a "business hotel" so I didn't get dinner there, but went out for a change.  I asked for a recommendation of the local flavors and this is what I got... white something-something....  it was really good and I had a good time watching a show on tv with the restaurant lady.  It was something like the US's Are you smarter than a 5th grader.  I actually got one right!  In Japanese...how proud was I?

  

  The next day, I was back on the trail... these rocks might look innocent enough, but I slipped and fell (my first fall!) a while later down the trail.  ouch!

  

  lots and lots of long bridges.... still in route to #35

  

  This is one of my choice vending machine beverages.... for those of you who know me, you know I don't really sweat that much.  Probably less than the average person you would say, right?  Forget that.  I am drenched with sweat 100 percent of the time now.  Its really weird.

  

  Hooray!  I finally got to #36.  Another long staircase UP to the temple, but it was pretty and lined with hydrangeas.

  

  I continue to be given lots and lots of things from local people.  Earlier that day a woman practically ran after me shouting "o-henro san! o-henro san! (pilgrim! pilgrim!)"  She gave me a little quilted bag filled with candy.  Ginger candy. Then, a man got off of his motorcycle and asked me if I would please honorifically receive something from him.  He gave me this little envelope with a 500 yen coin in it (about 5 dollars)!  Since it was pre-stamped, he must make it a habit to give these out to pilgrims, which I find awesome and surprising.  It hardened my desire to make it through all 88 temples.  I wasn't just doing this for me or my friends or family (I do write prayer cards for you'all!), I was on a mission for all the random people that help me too...

  

  After #36, I decided to ride the ferry part of the way to #37.  It took some doing, but I finally found the tiniest ferry port in the world.  And here I am.....ON A BOAT!

  I'M ON A BOAT, I'M ON A BOAT!

  (some men fishing from little huts in the middle of the water)

  ITS A BIG, BLUE WATERY ROAD!

  

  I NEVER REALLY THOUGHT I'D BE ON A BOAT....

  

  YEAH..... (END SONG)

  

  I walked until I came to a place called Susaki where I would be staying that night.  This is their local specialty; Nabeyaki Ramen

  

  You know I ate that!  It was delicious it made me dizzy.

  The next day, it was raining.  Raining-RAINING.  I was planning to walk this historical trail, but the man who ran the inn said it would be dangerous and that I should take the other one.  Once I reached this town.... (forgetting the name) I stopped into their Taisho Market place to see all the prep and buying of the fresh catch of fish.

  

  

  An old man waved me over to him.  He was a pilgrim--a "sleep outside pilgrim" (nojuku).  He was old and didn't have many teeth, but his clothes were clean and he didn't seem homeless.  Anyway, he starts going on and on about how dangerous the trails are in the rain.  Having slipped and fell the day before, I knew he was right, but he kept going on about how someone died one time or something or other....  then he added for extra emphasis, "You'll break your neck!  Ride the train!"  So... I rode the train and only walked like 8k that day.  BUT it was pouring rain.  After only 2 hours of walking, I was wet INside my poncho.  I decided to call it an early day.

  

  It wasn't all bad, the mist coming off the mountains in the rain was impressive.

  

  this was cute.  HALLO!

  

  After my wretched 2 hour walk in the pouring rain (yes, I'm a total princess) I reached #37, where I would be staying that night.  There was a really pushy nun that was running check-in and other matters.  I didn't like her at first and tried to avoid her...she kept finding me!  It was almost a little funny.  Actually, she was really helpful and showed me how to stuff my shoes with newspaper so they would be dry by morning.  After dinner she let me use the temple shoe-drying too (I guess such a thing exists).

  

  One cool feature of #37, is that the ceiling of the main hall is painted with all these different pictures.  Because I stayed there, I went to the 6am morning mantra chant and lecture.  The monk explained that in '77 they decided to have people paint whatever they wanted to decorate the temple.  I guess it was part of some sort of spruce-up campaign after they had to rebuild the thing when it was bombed in WWII... something like that.  Wish my Japanese was just a little better.

  

  Loved this bridge.  It crosses the Shimanto River, which is famous for being the only un-dammed river left in Japan (sad).  Also, as Kyohei told me, its famous for having really delicious seaweed.  Of course.

  

  I stopped into the Dragonfly Park.  A friend of a friend works there, so... you know.

  

  True to its name, there were a bizillion dragonflies there, but this is the only decent photo I was able to get.

  

  love those snails

  

  The lily pads where blooming!

  

  Loved the reflection of blue against the murky water.

  

  The bridge again on the way back.  It was supposed to rain that day, but didn't!  Hooray.  I've decided that I hate walking in the rain.

  

  Two friends hanging out by the river.  I thought this was nice... I wish one of my girl friends was here.... actually there are NO girls on the pilgrimage.  None.  And yes, I am that creeper taking pictures of people from behind the bushes.

  

  More views of the river and one of its famous chinkabashi bridges.  A postcard behind me in the lobby says they are a famous spot for filming scenes for movies and TV

  

  A nice lady with a small icecream stand on the side of the road gave me a free cone.  It was much appreciated because it was soooo hot and humid.  Destination: Ashizurimisaki, only 43K....

  

  flowers for sale on the side of the road

  

  reflections in the river

  

  more mountains in the mist

  

  I walked through the most unbearably long tunnel; 1620 meters!  What is that, like a mile?  You could not see the light at the end of the tunnel until about 1/2 way through.

  

  I think that tunnels are terrifying.  It took forever to get though this one.  I was so happy to be out of it I took this picture.  I think the exhaust fumes gave me a headache though.

  

  My inn for the night was on the other side of that bridge.  Just a little bit more, just a bit more....

   

  

  My face was crusty from sweat, my feet were aching and I think I pulled some muscle in my back, but I was so happy that I could see the ocean from my window that I took this picture.

  And that brings us up to today.  Obviously I found a hotel with internet.  Today was so awesome, that it deserves its own post.  Later.

   

  • 5:14 AM
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